Resource Guide MainStrip

Resource Guide


Resource Guide MainPic

A working knowledge of fibers and yarns enables our customers to understand the unique qualities of BYORK FABRICS premier circular knit fabrics. In addition to knitting with a wide variety of branded fibers BYORK FABRICS has registered and is the owner of several proprietary brands.

 

Acetate/triacetate – man-made from modified and chemically changed cellulose, fabrics from these fibers are silky and luxurious, quick-drying, and can be crisp or soft in hand depending on the end use.

 

Animal or protein fibers – wool and silk. These natural fibers have excellent resiliency and thermal properties, drape well and are comfortable to wear.

 

Cellulosic – a fiber made from plants. Cotton, linen, ramie, and hemp are natural cellulosic fibers. Rayon and lyocell are regenerated cellulosics; acetate and triacetate are modified cellulosic fibers.

 

Cotton Count or English Count – the yarn numbering system based on length and weight originally used for cotton yarns and now employed for most staple yarns spun on the cotton system. Under this system, the higher the number, the finer the yarn.

 

Cut – The number of needle slots per inch in the cylinder of a circular knit machine determines the cut of the machine. ABF produces fabrics primarily knit on machines from 12-cut to 28-cut. See Gauge.

 

Denier – The numbering system used in the U.S. for filament yarns. The lower numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers the coarser sizes. Filament yarns are usually represented by both denier (size) and filament count, for example, 1/70/68 would mean a single 70 denier yarn containing 68 filaments.

 

Filament – Synthetic fibers are extruded trough spinnerets into filaments; silk is the only natural yarn which is a single filament. Filament yarns may be composed of single or multiple filaments, which may be variously textured, twisted, crimped, or left flat. Yarns with low numbers of filaments per denier tend to be harsh and wirey; yarns with a high number of filaments per denier are usually more expensive and more desirable.

 

Gauge – The number of needles per given distance in a knitting machine, relating to the number of wales per inch in a knit fabric.

 

BDone ® BYORK FABRICS registered brand for a collection of circular knits made from full dull, textured Meryl® microfiber nylon and processed with BYORK FABRICS exclusive dyeing and finishing techniques for a smooth, supple hand.

 

BFone ® BYORK FABRICS registered brand for a collection of circular knits made from TENCEL A-100®. These new TENCEL knits have the aesthetics of the finest spun yarns with the performance of a synthetic.

 

LYCRA® SPANDEX – DuPont’s registered brand of elastomeric synthetic fiber.

 

LYCRA® 164 B – Du-Pont’s  new  matte  luster  LYCRA®  spandex  which  minimizes  grin  through  and  glitter  and  promotes  a  uniform  appearance  in  circular  knits.  LYCRA®  164B  has  superior  chlorine  resistance  and  retains  its  whiteness,  making  it  ideal  for  BYORK FABRICS’s  swimwear  and  high-performance  knits.

 

Lyocell – A  man-made  or  regenerated  cellulosic  fiber  with  a  manufacturing  process  that  is  separate  and  unique  from  that  of  its  cousin,  rayon.  Lyocell’s manufacturing process is environmentally-friendly.  The  fiber  is  strong  and  silky,  quick-drying,  and  has  an  excellent  affinity  for  dye.  Fabrics  made  of  lyocell  traditionally  have  a  warm,  peach-skin  handle  due  to  the  fiber’s  tendency  to  fibrillate  when  dyed  and  finished.

 

Meryl® -Nylstar, registered brand of microfiber nylon.

 

Microdenier/microfiber – A yarn  in  which  the  number  of  filaments  equals  or  exceeds  the  denier  of  the  yarn,  resulting  in  a  denier  per  filament  (dpf)  count  of 1.0  or  less.  (For example, a 1/150/200 yarn.)  Microfibers  offer  superior  aesthetics  and  performance  and  result  in  synthtic  fabrics  which  are  drapey  and  comfortable.  Yarns  that  are  near  microdenier,  such  as  1/70/68,  are  considered  for  all  intents  and  purposes  to  perform  as  microfibers.

 

Modal® – Lenzing’s registered brand for high wet-modulus rayon.

 

BYLoom ® – BYORK FABRICS’S  registered  process  for  making  our  synthetic  fabrics  more  comfortable  to  wear  by  changing  the  ability of  nylon  and  polyester  fibers  to  manage  moisture.  Synthetics  treated  with   BYNYF ®  become  hydrophilic,  wicking  and  dispersing  moisture  to  the  outside  of  the  fabric  where  it  quickly  evaporates.  The  BYNYF ®  process  is  permanent  and  does  not  affect  the aesthetics  or  performance  of  the  fabric.

 

Rayon – A  manufactured  fiber  composed  of  regenerated  cellulose  such  as  wood  pulp  (viscose  rayon)  or  cotton  linter  (cupro rayon).  Rayon   yarn can be either spun or filament.  Fabrics  made  of  rayon  tend  to  be  soft  with  good  drape,  are  highly  absorbant ,  with  low  strength  and  abrasion  resistance.  High-wet  modulus  or  polynosic  rayon  is  a  staple  fiber  (spun  yarn)  with  a  longer  molecular  chain  for  improved  wet  strength  and  abrasion  resistance.

 

Spandex – A manufactured stretch fiber composed of at least 85% polyurethane.  Spandex  is  lighter  in  weight,  more  durable,  and  more  supple  than  conventional  elastic  or  rubber  threads.  The  use  of  spandex  has  revolutionized  knitted  fabrics,  providing  comfort,  stretch,  recovery,  wrinkle-resistance,  and  ease  of  care  to  a  variety  of  products,  from  bathing  suits,  hosiery  and  intimate  apparel  to  T-shirts  and  knit  dressing  in  general.

 

Staple/spun – Staple  fibers  are  natural  fibers  such  as cotton  or  wool,  or  filament  fibers  which  are  chopped  or  cut  into  smaller  lengths. The staple  fiber  is  then  spun  into  yarns  on  the  cotton,  woolen,  or  worsted  systems.

 

Supplex® – DuPont’s registered brand for air-jet textured nylon, which gives the product a cottony hand.

 

Synthetic – Manufactured or man-made fibers synthesized from chemical   compounds or minerals (fiberglass). These include acrylic, nylon, polyester, polyurethane, polypropylene, etc.  synthetic  fibers  are  strong  and  hydrophobic  (low affinity for moisture)  and  are  generally  considered  to  be  uncomfortable  in  hot  weather. Synthetic  fibers  are  extruded  in  filament  form;  the  yarns  may  be  filament or chopped  into  staple  to  be  spun.

 

Tactel® – DuPont’s registered  brand of premium  microfiber and near-microfiber  nylons, usually  false-twist textured. Tactel  Diablo® are bright flat yarns with unique cross-sections for high luster effects.

 

TENCEL® – Acordis Fibers’ registered brand of lyocell.

 

TENCEL  A – 100® – Accordis  Fibers’  second  generation  of  lyocell,  which  is  chemically  treated in  the  fiber  form  to  prevent  fibrillation.  BYORK FABRICS’s   BYN® of piece-dyed TENCEL knits uses TENCEL A-100 exclusively.